Our selection of MTB forks covers every type of off-road riding: the RockShox Zeb with thirty-eight millimeter stanchions for enduro, the RockShox Judy, lightweight and lockable, for cross-country and sport touring, the Manitou Circus, short and sturdy, for dirt, and Zoom forks, either spring-suspended or rigid aluminium, to replace the original fork of a leisure MTB.
The right fork for every terrain.
The travel, the usable stroke of the fork, is primarily chosen based on the terrain. Cross-country and sport touring bikes are fine with one hundred to one hundred and twenty millimeters, which ensures lightness and ascent efficiency: this is the realm of the RockShox Judy, whose thirty-millimeter stanchions are enough to guide the front wheel on smooth trails. Enduro requires one hundred sixty to one hundred eighty millimeters and a much stiffer structure: the RockShox Zeb has thirty-eight millimeter stanchions that reduce twisting in rocky sections and during hard braking. Finally, dirt biking demands less travel but a fork capable of handling landings, like the Manitou Circus.
Mountain bike components are also available:
All components can be found on the peripheral components page.
The spring determines the characteristics of the fork. The air spring, like the Solo Air from the Judy, is adjusted with a pump according to the rider's weight and remains light; the coil spring in steel, found on Zoom leisure forks, is simpler and requires no pressure adjustment, at the expense of a higher weight. Hydraulics then control the speed of movements: the Zeb's Charger cartridge finely adjusts compression and rebound, while cross-country forks focus on a lockout, activated on the crown or via a handlebar control, which locks the suspension during climbs on asphalt and when sprinting out of the saddle.
A fork is first chosen for its wheel diameter: twenty-six inches on older mountain bikes and dirt bikes, twenty-seven and a half or twenty-nine inches on newer models. The axle must match the hub: a nine-millimeter quick release on entry-level forks, a fifteen-millimeter thru-axle, in one hundred or one hundred ten for the Boost standard on current models. The steerer must fit the head tube of the frame, either straight at one inch and an eighth or tapered up to one and a half inches, and it needs to be long enough for the stem and spacers. Finally, there’s the braking: disc brakes on most forks, mounts for V-brakes on some rigid forks.
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A lightweight fork with hundred to hundred twenty millimeters of travel, with an air spring and a lockout, like the RockShox Judy, is well suited for this use. Check the axle and the steerer, as the Judy comes in both a quick release with a straight steerer and a Boost axle with a tapered steerer.
The weight of an electric mountain bike and the speeds reached while descending put more strain on the fork. Opt for a sturdy model with large stanchions, like the RockShox Zeb, ensuring the manufacturer permits its use on an electric assist bike.
The offset is the distance between the wheel axle and the steering axis, for example, fifty-one millimeters on some twenty-nine inch Judys. A short offset stabilizes steering, while a long offset makes it livelier: it's advisable to stay close to the original value.
RockShox recommends maintenance for the lower legs, including cleaning the seals and replacing the oil, every fifty hours of riding or so, and a complete overhaul of the spring and cartridge at longer intervals. After each ride, simply wipe down the stanchions.
Yes, as long as the axle-to-crown height specified by the frame is respected, otherwise the steering angle will change. A rigid aluminum fork, requiring no maintenance and lighter than a basic suspended fork, is suitable for dirt and smooth trails.