The selection of shirts from the French Days dresses up the week as well as the weekend: Oxford Fred Perry shirt in twill, flannels from Colorful Standard and KnowledgeCotton in organic cotton, checked shirt from Nudie Jeans, denim shirts and overshirts from Project X Paris, tailored cuts from Michael Kors and women's models from KAFFE, Sofie Schnoor, or Pieces.
The piece that completes an outfit, at a discounted price.
The fabric gives character to the shirt. The Oxford, with its basket weave where the threads cross in pairs, has a visible grain and a thick feel: it withstands washes and only requires quick ironing, like the Fred Perry shirt. The poplin, with its tight and smooth weave, remains the fabric of dress shirts. The flannel, brushed for softness and warmth, is suited for autumn and winter, often in checks like the Nudie Jeans Glenn. The denim, woven with a twill using indigo-dyed warp yarn, creates a robust shirt with a raw character, which beautifully ages with washes.
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The cut determines the style just as much as the fabric does. The fitted or slim shirt hugs the torso thanks to darts in the back: it suits slim figures and is worn tucked in. The straight cut, more comfortable, falls without constraining and can be worn tucked or loose. The loose or oversized shirt, common in women's collections, can be worn open or tied at the waist. To check the size, the shoulder seam should sit right at the edge of the shoulder, the sleeves should stop at the base of the thumb, and the buttons should never pull across the chest, even with crossed arms.
The shirt jacket is between a shirt and an outer layer: made from a thicker fabric, flannel, velvet or canvas, it is worn open over a thin top in the mid-season. The one from Project X Paris, like the denim Classy shirt from the brand, adopts this casual style. The Faguo Ivoy shirt and Revolution models, with a Scandinavian inspiration, also play the everyday card. The flannels from KnowledgeCotton Apparel, a Danish brand committed to organic cotton, and Colorful Standard continue this style throughout winter, with deep colours that age well.
A shirt lasts longer with a few simple steps. One should wash it unbuttoned, rubbing the collar and cuffs with Marseille soap if marked, at thirty or forty degrees for cotton. It should be hung while still damp on a hanger: the weight of the water relaxes the creases and makes ironing easier, starting with the collar, cuffs and sleeves before the back and fronts. To whiten a yellowed shirt, soaking it in hot water with sodium percarbonate revives the white without damaging the fibres, where bleach weakens them and can worsen yellowing.
The most common explanation dates back to past centuries: wealthy women were dressed by servants, for whom the buttons placed on the left made the task easier, while men buttoned up themselves. The convention has remained.
With the shirt closed and laid flat, back up, fold the sleeves and sides towards the centre before folding it in half from the bottom. Placed on top of the suitcase, or rolled up itself, it arrives almost without creases.
Linen, a very breathable natural fibre, absorbs moisture and dries quickly: it’s the shirt for hot days. It creases easily, which is part of its charm; it should be ironed slightly damp for a neater look.
Dress shirts often indicate neck size in centimetres: measure around the base of the neck and add about a centimetre for ease. With the collar fastened, you should be able to slip two fingers between the collar and the skin.
The short-sleeved shirt, like the Kariban Aces, is preferably worn untucked when its hem is straight, with the collar open. Its sleeves should stop around the middle of the arm for a clean and proportionate look.