Our Crankset Tools page brings together our tips for taking apart and reassembling a crankset yourself: crank extractor, threaded bottom bracket wrenches, press and extractor for press-fit bottom brackets, crank cap tool, chainring bolt wrench, pedal wrench, and torque wrench.
The crankset workshop, at home.
On a square-taper crankset, the crank arms are removed with a remover that screws into the crank and pushes it off the axle. On modern hollow axle cranksets, the adjustment cap is unscrewed with a specific tool, followed by the tightening screws of the left crank before removing the axle. Each crankset system has its own tools: identify your model before purchasing.
Bicycle tools also come in various types:
All tools are gathered on the tools page.
The threaded bottom bracket is removed with a notched key suitable for the number and diameter of the notches on the cups: be careful, the transmission side cup often unscrews in the opposite direction. The press-fit bottom bracket, tightly fitted, is removed with a hammer extractor and is reinstalled with a press, which pushes the cups straight without damaging the frame.
The pedal wrench, long and thin, of fifteen millimeters, or an Allen key depending on the models, allows for the removal of pedals; the left pedal unscrews clockwise. The chainring bolt key secures the rear nut during tightening. The torque wrench ensures the recommended torque, essential on carbon parts and modern cranksets.
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You need a crank extractor: you screw it into the crank, then tighten the central screw that pushes against the axle and dislodges the crank. First, remove the fixing screw or nut with a socket wrench.
Unscrew the adjustment cap with the specific tool, then loosen the tightening screws of the left crank. Then just push the axle to remove the whole assembly from the right side.
Each system has its own key: external notched key for bottom brackets with external bearings, notched socket for cartridge bottom brackets. Identify your model before buying the tool to avoid damaging the parts.
It ensures the tightening torque recommended by the manufacturer: if it's too low, it causes play and creaking; too high, it damages threads and carbon parts.
You use a specific extractor that removes the bearings from the frame, then a press to install the new ones perfectly straight. A hammer should be avoided during reassembly, as it risks deforming the housings.