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The bicycle maintenance and tools page brings together everything you need to keep your drivetrain clean and your bike well-tuned: lubricants Finish Line, Shimano and Velox, degreasers Loctite, Peaty's and Var, greases SRAM and Finish Line, preventative liquids Vittoria and Pirelli, torque wrench Super B and pressure gauge Schwalbe. For regular maintenance at home as well as precise adjustments.
A clean and lubricated bike rides better, wears less, and is cheaper to maintain.
The lubricant is chosen according to the weather conditions for outings. The Finish Line Dry, enriched with Teflon, leaves a dry film that traps little dust: ideal for dry weather and dusty paths. The Finish Line Wet, thicker, withstands rain and mud, but requires careful wiping to avoid dirtying the chain. The ceramic versions further reduce friction, and the wax Ceramic Wax leaves a clean-feeling chain that soils hands and legs less. For an electric bike, the oil Velox is formulated for the high torque that the motor transmits to the chain.
Before relubricating, one degreases: a fresh lubricant on a dirty chain creates an abrasive paste that wears down cogs and chainrings. The degreaser Finish Line Citrus, with citrus, or the Ecotech, biodegradable, is sprayed on the chain and cassette and then rinsed with water; the Peaty's foam sticks to vertical surfaces without dripping, and the aerosol degreaser Loctite removes stubborn deposits. The brake discs require a dedicated product, such as the cleaning spray Finish Line, which evaporates without leaving a film: a trace of grease on a disc is enough to make it squeal and weaken the braking.
The grease protects what oil can't hold: threads, bearings, axles, and seat posts, against corrosion and seizing. The SRAM Butter, very creamy, maintains seals and fork rings without damaging the rubbers, while the ceramic grease Finish Line and the biodegradable PTFE grease from Var are used for bearings and threaded parts. In tubeless, the preventive liquid, like that from Vittoria or Pirelli Scorpion Sealant, spreads on the inner wall of the tire and seals small punctures in a few wheel rotations; it needs to be topped up regularly, as it eventually dries out.
The tools are organized by use:
The other parts, wheels, pedaling, components, tires, suspensions, are on the spare parts page.
Carbon and small aluminium screws don’t forgive a sloppy tightening. The torque wrench Super B with a T-handle is adjustable from four to six Newton-meters, the range for most stems, seat clamps, and handlebars, and emits a click when the torque marked on the part is reached; its three, four, and five-millimetre bits and the Torx T25 bit also cover disc screws. The manometer digital Schwalbe Airmax Pro displays the pressure to the hundredth of a bar on Presta and Schrader valves, to set each tire according to the terrain and its weight.
A good multi-tool combines Allen keys from two to eight millimetres, a Torx T25 bit for discs, a screwdriver, and ideally, a chain breaker. Check that it reaches all the screws on your bike, especially those of the seat clamp and the stem.
A spare inner tube or a tubeless plug, two tire levers, a mini-pump or a CO2 cartridge, a multi-tool, and a quick chain link cover most breakdowns. Everything fits in a saddle bag or a jersey pocket.
The tool depends on the standard: extractor for square axles, cup tool for threaded bottom brackets with external bearings, press and bearing puller for press-fit bottom brackets. Identify your bike's standard before purchasing.
A wear indicator, slipped between the links, measures the chain elongation. As soon as it reaches the mark, change it before it wears out the cassette and chainrings, which are much more expensive to replace.
Annual servicing at a bike shop allows for hydraulic brake bleeding, checking bearings, and maintaining the suspension fork. Suspension manufacturers also recommend servicing seals according to the number of hours ridden.