Starting at £23.20
£12.23
Our selection of mountain bike brake levers includes the hydraulic two-finger Magura lever, available in complete right or left versions, and the pair of P2R aluminium lever-shifters for V-Brake brakes, compatible with Shimano, along with our tips for choosing your system, adjusting the reach, and replacing a lever without mistakes.
Control your braking at your fingertips.
The hydraulic lever houses a master cylinder: by pulling it, we push oil to the pistons of the caliper, which provides power and fine control with little effort. Magura, a German manufacturer founded in 1893 in Bad Urach, uses a mineral oil, the Royal Blood, which is incompatible with DOT fluid from other brands: lever and caliper must remain from the same system. The mechanical lever, like the P2R pair, pulls a cable to operate a V-Brake. Its pull, longer than that of a road lever, must match this type of brake.
Mountain bike braking also comes in:
All braking is gathered on the braking page.
The lever-controller P2R combines the brake lever and gear control into a single unit: a compact and economical solution, common on recreational VTTs with V-Brake brakes. It instantly replaces the two functions when one breaks after a fall. The Magura lever with two fingers features a longer blade: you brake using the index and middle fingers, providing more leverage and less fatigue during long descents. With a powerful brake, often one finger is enough, while the others remain on the grip for better handlebar control.
The reach, the distance between the blade and handlebars, is adjusted with a screw or knob: it's set according to hand size to reach the lever without stretching the fingers. The angle is chosen while standing on the pedals, in a descending position: the wrist should stay aligned with the forearm, with the finger resting on the blade. Finally, bring the lever closer to the grip so that the index finger rests at the end of the blade, where leverage is at its maximum. On a hydraulic lever, the contact point can also sometimes be adjusted.
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On a cable brake, a dirty housing or a worn spring in the caliper slows the return. On a hydraulic system, dirty pistons or air in the line are often the cause: cleaning or bleeding resolves the issue.
Bleeding is done with the brand's mineral oil, a syringe, and the appropriate kit: oil is pushed from the caliper to the lever until all bubbles are cleared. It is necessary when the lever becomes spongy or touches the handlebars.
Levers with short or adjustable reach, which bring the blade closer to the handlebars for small hands. A child must be able to brake hard without letting go of the grip, an essential condition for their safety in descents.
Detach the cable, loosen the clamp, and remove the grip if necessary. Position and tighten the new lever, then reattach the cable, adjust its tension, and test the braking while stationary before riding.
No, a hydraulic lever cannot pull a cable. To switch to hydraulic, you replace the lever, hose, and caliper together, or choose a hybrid cable caliper designed for mechanical levers.